TRAINS: LENGTHS AND STYLES

Back in the Middle Ages when fabric was in short supply, the length of one’s train conveyed a person’s wealth and standing. For Victorians, bustling the train was considered an art form, with intricate floral and lace treatments. Today, a gown with a train still suggests formality; typically, the longer the train, the more formal the wedding. So what is a train exactly? A train is that extension in the back of the skirt that follows when you move. There are two types of trains: Built-in and detachable. Built-ins are integrated into the actual skirt pattern when the dress is made. These are the kind that are pulled up and bustled after the ceremony. A detachable train is a separate component, not integrated with the skirt pattern. Detachables are usually removed after the ceremony, although I’ve seen them bustled every so often when brides want to keep that certain “Gigi” look going for the party.

Above: An allover lace dress with a built-in cathedral train.  Lower Left: A detachable organza sweep train. Lower Right: A lace bridal kimono with a chapel train.

TRAIN LENGTHS 

Sweep or Brush: Measures 6-12 inches past the hemline, brushing the floor. Looks best in lighter weight fabrics such as tulle, chiffon, and crepe. Ideal for shorter brides who want to stay in proportion and those who wish to combine a touch of elegance with more effortless mobility. 

Chapel: Considered formal. Extends about 2-4 feet beyond the hemline. Can be bustled in medium to heavyweight fabrics. 

Cathedral: Formal. Generally, about a 6-8-foot extension from the hemline. Needs bustling treatment post-ceremony. 

Royal: Very long. 10 feet or more beyond the hemline. Diana Spencer’s was twenty-five feet! Ultra-formal look for big church and cathedral ceremonies.

Above Left: A Watteau train of silk chiffon flows from the shoulders, extending into a cathedral-length train. Above Right: A detachable modified panel train in heavy silk faille. 

Above Left: An overskirt with a sweep train in multiple layers of tulle. Above Right: An evening gown silhouette featuring a fishtail train made of contrasting organza.

TRAIN STYLES 

Watteau: Named after the eighteenth-century painter who popularized his models wearing them, this style is attached at the shoulder or upper back and falls to the hemline or beyond. 

Panel Train: A long strip or A-line shape of fabric. Typically attached to the waist; though sometimes fastened to the back or shoulders. 

Bouffant: A sort of semi-skirt gathered onto a band at the back waist, sometimes extending to the hip area. Popular accent with sheath and A-line silhouettes. Check out Audrey Hepburn’s party dress in the movie Sabrina; it’s a good example. 

Overskirt: Gathered or fitted onto a belt that can be unhooked for the reception. May be made of solid fabric like Duchesse satin or something transparent like organza. 

Fishtail: Either a built-in extension or godet (triangle of fabric inserted into the back seam).

Above: A detachable cathedral train in all-over Chantilly lace

  If your heart is set on an ultra-formal gown and you’re petite, concentrate on exquisite fabric or embroidery rather than extension. A sweep train and veil is about as far as you can go if you want to stay in proportion. Heavier? Go to any length, but keep in mind thick, textured, adorned fabrics aren’t your best option. Lucky you if you’re tall and slender. Go any length you like in any fabric without over-embellishing. 

 Evening gown silhouettes in lightweight fabrics come with both built-in and detachable trains; sheath silhouettes, the latter unless they have fishtail treatments. If you’re looking for an A-line or ball gown in medium to heavyweight fabrics like Duchesse satin and Peau de Soie, your train will probably be a built-in chapel or cathedral length. These are the more formal gowns, and when you visit a salon, you won’t find them displayed out in the open as much. If you do see one, or a sales consultant brings one out, observe how the gown keeps its shape on the hanger or dress form. If it’s hanging up, it will probably be on a molded form-hanger, bustled, and/or displayed at least a foot apart from other gowns similar in silhouette. A dress form is the next best thing to you wearing it and will show it off to its best advantage. 

 Things to look for: Notice whether or not the skirt (read: skirt, not the under slip) seems to have a structure that can stand on its own. It should. This has to do with how it's (1.) lined, and (2.) hemmed. When you pick up the skirt—including the train—and look closely at the hemline, you’re likely to find a 3-6” wide band of horsehair. That’s the clear and meshy edging at the hemline that gives the bottom of the dress some flex as well as firmness. Notice how the skirt and train extension seem to hold that precision shape. It’s the horsehair that keeps the bottom of the skirt in shape and gliding when you move, instead of swishing side to side (you’ll find this out once you try on the gown). Typically, horsehair is sewn to the inside of the hem. Most designers bring the skirt lining completely over the horsehair edging, leaving as clean a finish inside as out. Keep in mind you’ll be walking over surfaces of stones and uneven pavements that might trip you up or get caught up in the horsehair. With clean finishing work inside, when you lift your skirt to walk upstairs, the horsehair edging is hidden. 

 

CREDITS 

Header Photos: Photo 1: Pixamage Photos 2-5: Bride Chic Photography 

Photo 6: Taralynn Lawton Photography 

Photos 7 & 8: Bride Chic Photography 

Photos 9 &10: Bride Chic Photography 

Photos 11&12: Bride Chic Photography & Aura O'Brien

Photo 12: Bride Chic Photography

See more images of trains and bustles

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