SALUTE TO MADELINE VIONET
Pioneer of the bias cut, Madeleine Vionet, once said, '"When a woman smiles, her dress must also smile" . Translated I think madamoiselle may have meant, a woman is happiest wearing her gown like a second skin. Long before the development of knits, the bias cut was used for body-hugging silhouettes like the Vionet original above. It all started back in the 1920s when the Parisian couturier developed a technique utilizing the true cross grain of fabric rather than straight grain lines of weft or warp of the fabric. Vionnet used fabrics like crêpe and charmeuse; These were novel to women's wear in the 1920s and 30s. She also ordered fabrics two yards wider than the 19-36"norm for the time so that she could work out draping and layout techniques. As a result gowns and dresses moved beautifully when cut on the bias. Vionnet's trademark: styles that cling to and move with the wearer. Examples: Bias cut gowns with cowl necklines, the handkerchief dress of the 1920s, and halter top. By 1930, Hollywood designers took advantage of Vionet's bias cut and made it into a real trend via moving pictures. Today the bias cut gown is a classic option for brides.
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Madeleine Vionet in her studio circa 1920
With tulle overlay by Blumarine
Greco-Roman in inspiration, by Rosa Clara.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXbuWx9QqlCUzLV71xezE2y1iNYlvmzwyfgVTWGGaRlppxcheFcXB8i-Cae0Zcu3rW7Mjf8NfFlM4xQztrhlJXCN3tryEqA_1XT-hRbOwZemPWxua-sB4q4795m7Djczt2iRviDr-aD2s/s400/imagenes_elieok_a0a45cf3.jpg)
From Elie Saab
V-shaped neckline by Manuel Mota for Pronovias.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDrIb_akIuniw53gMjYe7vMdwY24ttLx9rCkacfGOeLqvQiM49ogZQ2erYUZzIIQepSO-cNxG0pXrWJN4_rkWM0nTZpDa4c1M4137BJe-Tvjn46NM0rglLT72F_Dbb5KFjPnWeK02dtI/s320/Madeleine_Vionnet_in_her_studio_about_1920.jpg)
Madeleine Vionet in her studio circa 1920
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqPfnb3H5MWKDKA3RspblVhlxMq_puWYmNQmx-4CEroEEl4YeTwZ93LrFCWOH0vgsgyoADO9WvHsv9QbLdZqOGHQR0quw2aWyuktwWwkGrglH4lkSKz75E6rIsrAywkfMFjQ0I1D8s6P0/s400/imagenes_blumarine_62df285a.jpg)
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![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXbuWx9QqlCUzLV71xezE2y1iNYlvmzwyfgVTWGGaRlppxcheFcXB8i-Cae0Zcu3rW7Mjf8NfFlM4xQztrhlJXCN3tryEqA_1XT-hRbOwZemPWxua-sB4q4795m7Djczt2iRviDr-aD2s/s400/imagenes_elieok_a0a45cf3.jpg)
From Elie Saab
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpO243KjweO83Y6CZgDfc8Mb4Te0GIem0w-EjBA5GbdgmKYpS0dcMN818Xo1mGnGuwUZpY5GFKuNiII-tJExEKIT5d2S8UAlYdoMF15OY_muTLiKx3W6dakq1VKCA_itaCbI_oelkajyE/s400/imagenes_imagenes_Mota-Preta-Porter_009_6eab8971%5B1%5D_b8f57fd4.jpg)