Tuesday, January 17, 2017

A GLOSSARY OF SLEEVE SILHOUETTES

From a designer’s point of view, sleeves can be one of the most creative components of a gown. For me, a well-designed sleeve is a work of art; it combines fabric and adornment into the overall image of the gown. I also think sleeves are the most satisfying part of a gown to work on—the actual stitching, manipulation of fabric and trim—the real character of the gown. There are probably more variations of sleeve than any other component and once you’ve decided to go with sleeves realize your possibilities are never-ending.

Besides looking beautiful, the right sleeves can add bodice appeal as well as keep your skirt or sloping shoulders in proportion. Although not foremost, keeping arms warm could be another option for wearing sleeves. Once upon a time etiquette dictated the length sleeve you could wear during winter months or time of day you got married. Fortunately these restrictions were lifted long ago. Nowadays, you can go for long sleeves in summer, short caps in winter if that’s your desire. Be realistic though. Just make sure you have a decent wrap or stole in New York for your December wedding. As for long sleeves next July in Palm Springs, go for them. Ever since Vera Wang popularized the detachable sleeve that ties and unties from your gown’s bodice, brides still opt for them.

When choosing a sleeve, think of them in terms having their very own silhouette within the outline of your gown as a whole. Because of the vast variation there is on sleeves, I’ve listed only the basic sleeve silhouettes from which many other styles derive.   
Above: Gauntlets on The ROCHELLE Dress

Cap: Tiny sleeves that barely cover the upper portion of the arm.  
Flounce or Flutter: Usually cut on the bias this resembles an open bell sleeve with a hem falling diagonally, sometimes falling into a deep-V back.
Puffed: Short sleeve gathered at the armhole into a puffy top.  The cuff is also puffed giving a ballooned shape 
Petal or Tulip: curved ar hem and overlapping to give a petal-shape.  Aka a tulip      
Short: Longer than a cap sleeve, you will find examples of these on t-shirts
Three Quarter: Hemmed at the upper forearm
Long: Set in and fitted sleeve extending from shoulder to wrist, offering the classic bridal look
Bell: Set in smoothly at the armhole, flaring to a straight across hem
Bishop: Long, full sleeve set in smoothly to the armhole, gathered at the wrist.  Always is fuller at the wrist than
Juliet: A long, fitted sleeve with a puffed shoulder.
Gauntl
et: A long, fitted sleeve that is put on separately like a glove and not attached to the bodice or dress in any way
Dolman or Batwing: A set in sleeve tapering from an oversized armhole, fitted closely at the wrist.  Seen in many dresses harking back to the late 1930s.
Leg of Mutton: Wide and puffed at the upper arm, narrowing from elbow to wrist

Clockwise: Photo 1--Long and fitted sleeves of Chantilly lace//Photos 2&3--Three Quarter sleeves with a flounce//Following Page: Shirred gauntlet sleeves.
Header Photo; Flutter sleeves on the COSETTE Dress//Above Clockwise: Photo 1--Long and fitted sleeves of Chantilly lace//Photos 2&3--Three Quarter sleeves with a flounce

3 comments:

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La Fantaisie said...

Sleeves or no sleeves, a wedding gown cannot be complete without proper accessories. And yes a designer can try many things with sleeves and give them a new look.

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